Tag Archives: tuscany

Italy: North vs. South – A Red Wine Blind Tasting

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Wine

    

  • Zenato – 2012 Alanera – Veneto, Italy

  • Fuedo Maccari – 2012 Saia – Sicily, Italy

  • Tenuta Sette Ponti – 2014 Poggio al Lupo – Tuscany, Italy

  • Planeta – 2015 La Segreta – Sicily, Italy

  • Altesino – 2013 Rosso – Tuscany, Italy

  • Planeta – 2011 Burdese – Sicily, Italy

The Setup

A Young’s Market (wine distributor) rep hosted this blind tasting at Alessia’s Ristorante (Mesa, AZ). All wines were drunk while enjoying a charcuterie platter.

  • For the purposes of this tasting, it was assumed Tuscany was “South”.
  • Northern Italy is cooler than Southern: cooler climates generally produce wines with more acidity.
  • Northern Italy generally utilizes a different winemaking style: Southern Italy tends to make easier drinking red wine, versus Northern where reds tend to have more tannin and can be bottle aged. Tuscany in Central Italy can make both styles, but the Sangiovese and Cab Sauv grapes that dominate this area are not difficult to recognize.
  • The ringer:
    • Unusual winemaking processes commonly used by producers in the Western Veneto area (North) can produce fruity, rich red wines:
      • Appassimento – a process for drying of grapes and concentrating flavors (think raisins)
      • Ripasso – a process where additional skins from previously pressed fruit is added to the must to add structure

Wine Tasting Notes  & Comments

So, I landed five out of six for North/South growing region and the one ringer DID fool me. The Zenato wine was made Appassimento style and I thought it was Southern. The wine selections was great, but I missed having a traditional Barolo (North region) in the mix and it would have been fun to add a Dolcetto, Barbera (both North varietals), or Aglianico (South varietal) that might trick us. Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is a classic southern wine and probably should have been represented instead of multiple wines from Sicily.

Before we begin with the tasting notes, an observation about my palate. I enjoy fruity wines with the best of them, but they need to have some structure. Flabby, grape juice tasting wines are not my favorite, in fact I can enjoy big, young Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. Keep that in mind when reading the notes below…

Zenato – My favorite wine of the night. Lots of fruit both red and black on the nose and palate. Medium-low acidity and tannin with a dark chocolate mid-palate and finish. There was an interesting almost tar-like finishing note, with violets. Something like the finish of a good aged Barbaresco… The wine had some structure, but the complexity was the real draw. This is a drink now wine. Best drinking window 2016-2018.

Fuedo Maccari – My number two from the list. Saia is one of the few wines coming out of Sicily with a reputation preceding it. This is a fruit forward wine of black fruit and dark chocolate, with medium acidity and medium-low tannins. There is a touch of sweetness. This is a lighter, softer wine, but a bit muscular compared to a typical Nero d’Avola. These Sicilian Nero d’Avola wines are fantastic value red table wines, but definitely don’t elevate to the level of product coming from better mainland producers. Saia is arguably the best of the Sicilian group, but will cost you a few dollars more. For those who enjoy a consistently fruity wine year over year, easy drinking – with some complexity, this would be a solid selection. Best drinking window: 2015-2019.

Tenuta Sette Ponti – This was a very disappointing, overpriced wine. I would choose their Crognolo label for much less money, or their Oreno label for a little more. High tannins and acidity make up its structure. The wine is not fruit forward and primarily presents an extremely bitter chocolate palate with some earthy character. You could say: “with some bottle age this may tone down”… but there is not enough balance to think it will improve drastically. The texture is good, with a long finish. Best drinking window: 2020-2030.

Planeta

La Segreta – Fruit forward with all red fruit on the nose and palate. The structure has no tannins and low acidity. The texture is slightly watery. This wine is past its drinking window. You can tell this is a drink now wine, that should have been drunk: 2014-2016. The 50% Nero d’Avola and 20% Merlot in this mix was a match made for a drink now table wine.

Burdese – Slightly fruit forward with red fruit on the nose and palate. Strong dark chocolate character on the mid-palate and finish. The cab franc adds a slightly spicy character. The structure was high in both tannins and acidity. This wine still needs more time in the bottle. Could make an effective food wine. Best drinking window: 2019-2022.

Altesino – Fruit forward with red and black fruits on the nose and palate. There was a forest floor character to the nose that blows off after about 20 mins. This is a very average Rosso di Montalcino with a very little bit of Brunello character. It is easy drinking and without much structure. The typical dark chocolate finish is there. Pretty decent, but maybe I just want to compare it too much with the much more expensive Brunello wines.

Fun Stuff

We invited our neighbors to join us and we all had a great time, including dinner afterwards. There were four other couples at the event and everyone enjoyed themselves. The rep from Young’s Market was fairly knowledgeable and added interest. If you haven’t tried a blind tasting, give it a shot. It adds a little extra entertainment to a tasting and the suspense of your assessment adds to the experience.

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2010 Carpineto Chianti Classico Riserva

Wine Tasting Notes:

2017 Carpineto Chianti Classico Riserva

Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy

I really enjoyed this wine! Great mix of old & new world styles. Blackberry, raspberry and a touch of mint on the nose. The palate is of blackberry, raspberry and black currant in a rich, fruity style more reminiscent of Brunello, than Chianti Classico. This is my kind of fruit forward, mouth-filling and structured Sangiovese. No finesse here. If you like some tannin in your reds, drink now. If a softer wine is your speed, give it another 3-5 years in the bottle. With medium-high acidity and medium-high tannins, this will easily mature well. Pair this wine with red meats and red sauces. The value in Italian wines is undeniable!

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Filed under Chianti Classico, International Wines by Region, Italian Wine, Sangiovese, Toscana, Wine Tasting, Wine Tasting Notes

2008 Antinori Guado al Tasso Bolgheri Superiore

Guado Pic

2008 Antinori Guado al Tasso Bolgheri Superiore

Bolgheri Superiore DOC, Tuscany, Italy

Wine Tasting Note:

Deep, dense purple color with brownish hue around the rim. Would have guessed older than 8 years in the bottle. Closed and limited nose on open. Not much coming through yet except alcohol, bitter chocolate and watery texture. Sampling until ready… about 45 mins. hitting its stride. Still ample freshness and has become fruit forward as opening. Plum, boysenberry, blackberry in front. Minimum mid-palate, with a medium length finish of subtle dark chocolate. Tannins are grippy and high, with high acidity. The texture has improved, adding a bit of mouth-feel and volume. Great structure, but the fruit has become subtler than an earlier bottle. Fruity enough to be drunk on its own still, but perfect for a pairing with red sauce and meat dishes. Antinori has delivered another quality Tuscan blend with versatility and some aging potential. I enjoyed a few glasses prior to dinner, but this would be even better with food. If you enjoy aged wine flavor profiles, this should be best drunk 2017-2018. If you aren’t concerned whether your wine is fruit-forward, the tannins should resolve somewhat in another 3-4 yrs. If you’re like me and you prefer some noticeable drying tannins, this wine is perfect now. A nice middle-ground between old and new world flavor profiles.

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Filed under Bolgheri, Bordeaux/Meritage Blend, International Wines by Region, Italian Wine, Toscana, Wine by Varietal, Wine Tasting, Wine Tasting Notes

Capezzana Barco Reale di Carmignano

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2014 Capezzana Barco Reale di Carmignano DOC

Sangiovese Blend (80% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon)

Carmignano, Italy

Tasting Note:

Walking through the store today and saw this wine. Have not tasted a wine from the Carmignano region in Italy and was curious. The area has an interesting winemaking history dating back centuries. I had success with the same selection process years ago, when I tried my first Anglianico from the Vulture region. Unfortunately, this was not as pleasant a surprise. The wine is a very good table wine meant to accompany food. At the $14.99 USD/btl price, it was priced just about right… The nose is weak with red & black fruits, leather and alcohol. The palate is barely fruit forward, the red fruit being sour raspberry and the black is blackberry and black currant. The mid-palate has some leather and there is a medium length bitter chocolate finish. The wine is a bit thin & watery, with medium acidity and medium tannins. This is fairly well balanced for table wine quality, potentially pairing well with pork chops. Would not go out of my way to find this, but would not turn it down if served with a meal.

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Filed under Italian Wine, Toscana, Wine Tasting, Wine Tasting Notes

2014 Italian Wine Tasting Event

Location: Allesia’s Ristorante Italiano – Mesa, AZ

Tasted Saturday, November 22, 2014

INTRODUCTION

This is really a great little Italian Restaurant that could hold its own if you dropped it almost anywhere in the country. Jon is the friendliest of proprietors and is quite knowledgeable regarding Italian wines. He has a ridiculously good wine selection for such a small location.

For this event, he partnered with a wine distributor (Young’s Market) to offer a really fabulous Italian wine tasting event. Young’s brought two of their sales reps and the importer was present too. I was able to ask questions and take notes, but it was more for the public, than the trade… so, I couldn’t stay seated and evaluate the wines and record my impressions fully.

If you live in the area, enjoy Italian food and wine and haven’t stopped in, you are definitely missing an experience.

WINE FLIGHT 1 – DAILY DRINKERS (9 NOTES)

Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

Galloni gave this a 91… He must really enjoy big, rich Chardonnay. I enjoyed the nice acidic backbone and the opulent mouth-feel. The aging on the lees added serious texture and body. This wine had a strong red apple nose and palate. The style of winemaking muted the freshness of the fruit. I enjoyed this for what it was, a nice expression of a chardonnay meant to stand on its own. The richness would make food pairings a bit more challenging.

Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

Easy drinking red table wine. Nice balance and mouth-feel for an inexpensive wine. This red is made with a minimum of oak influence and the freshness of the fruit shines through as a result. The structure is just barely enough with medium tannins and medium-high acidity, but for $12 retail, this wine will accompany most all Italian fare without a hitch. The palate is dominated by a fruit-forward presentation of black and red cherry with a relatively short finish.

Italy, Piedmont, Asti, Barbera d’Asti Superiore

This wine continued to reinforce Alba as the premier Barbera producer. Barberas like this from Asti are much simpler and less complex. In Alba, Barbera transcends table wine. In Asti, Barbera table wine is what you get. Even the several Asti DOCG producers I have tasted, just aren’t in the same league. This is a very light and simple wine… to the point of uninteresting. Medium-low tannins and medium acidity for a weak backbone. Drink this now, it won’t last in the bottle more than a year, or two. Black and red cherry flavors on the palate, with a touch of plum. No finish. Works best as a medium quality table wine for pairing with lighter fare…

Italy, Umbria, Lago di Corbara

Slightly sweet, very simple wine, with poor structure. Not acidic enough for a table wine to accompany food. Not tannic enough to bottle-age and not interesting enough to drink on its own…

Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG

Actually, a very typical chianti profile with sour red cherry, high tannins and high acidity… but I believe the bottle was flawed. Poor storage, or a leak in the cork. Either way, it was definitely oxidized. I certainly hope the wine was not intended to have that character…

Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Rùfina

Nice, but unremarkable traditional Chianti. Slightly sour bright red cherry with black cherry overtones on the palate. High acidity and tannins for good structure, but very rustic. A bit thin. This could handle some bottle-age. Would be a good food wine for pairing with rich red sauces and red meat. If I was a bigger Chianti fan, I would give it another point for being very true to the regional profile.

Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

Every Italian wine tasting reinforces the impression… the best Italian Sangiovese is Brunello. I know purists will argue that Brunello is a sibling to Sangiovese, but genetic testing has shown otherwise. It IS Sangiovese. This area must be the perfect terroir for the grape, for the wines are just spectacular, if rather expensive. Fresh red and black cherry palate with a fantastic full mouth-feel. High acidity and high tannins make for a great backbone. The bigger mouth-feel makes the wine more approachable. This is a good example of a quality Brunello.

Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

Brooding black cherry palate, with strong bitter dark chocolate character. The big mouth-feel and more refined tannins of most Brunellos is missing here. The high acidity and rustic tannins do not make the wine very approachable now. Perhaps, this is just made in a more ageable style. I have tasted several similar Brunellos, but this is not my preferred profile.

Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

Maybe I am just a Barolo purist and should have scored this a little higher. The character is very typical, with a red cherry and leather palate, but the wine is simple, lacking the complexity of higher priced Barolos. Decent QPR for a representative Barolo, but missing the good things I try to find that make it special, namely: a strong floral nose & palate and an herbal mint character. This wine had the typical unique Barolo tannins with high acidity, in keeping with this wine’s fantastic ageability.

WINE FLIGHT 2 – SUPER TUSCANS (7 NOTES)

Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

Nose of black cherry and brown butter. The palate is fruit-forward and a touch sweet and the Petit Verdot in the blend adds some mouth-feel. The structure is a little weak, with only medium tannins and acidity. Definitely, a wine to drink within the next year, or two. It was a decent everyday drinker, but the touch of sweetness would not be my preference with food.

Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri

One of those wines that for me, is difficult to score. The flavors were right up my alley, but the structure was missing a tannin backbone. Weak nose with some spice. A fruit forward palate with a mild dark chocolate that starts from the attack and is present through the finish. A lighter wine style with a beautiful cinnamon and clove character to the spice. Good high acidity, but only medium tannins and a nice long finish.

Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

Young’s Market is the distributor in our area and was selling this through Allesia’s at $22/btl retail. For that price, an ageable wine like this is a pretty good deal. Had a typical Super Tuscan profile, with good structure and mouth-feel. High tannins and high acidity with a really nice apple pie spice character. Give this 3-5 years in the bottle and it will make an even bigger impression…

Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

I was told Suckling gave this a 95! Ooops! Where did that come from? Yes, definitely speaks Super Tuscan. Just because it is representative, doesn’t make it a best in class wine. This is fruit-forward with good structure and decent balance. Will age well and improve in a 3-5 year time frame. Black cherry, dark chocolate, a bit thin, but a good finish… all the components of a solid Super Tuscan.

Italy, Tuscany, Maremma, Maremma Toscana

A very nice example of a Super Tuscan with some age on it already. Very similar profile to the Crognolo label from the same producer and vintage year (see my previous tasting note)… but this added a big, elegant mouth-feel. I am sure the five years of bottle age has contributed to the elegance of the wine. This is fruit-forward with good structure and decent balance. Will age well and improve. Has a black cherry and dark chocolate palate with a good finish… all the components of a solid Super Tuscan. Decent QPR for a bottle-aged Super Tuscan for people who aren’t willing to hold and wait.

Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

Past vintages of this wine have been consistently good. This may be a slightly better year than average. Spicy, fruity nose. Fruit-forward palate of black cherry and plum. Medium-high acidity and the tannins were high, but accessible, with a character that fills the mouth. Perhaps a touch too fruity for a top notch food wine, but the great structure and balance will provide a nice experience on its own. This is wine is one of my faves for the price.

Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri, Bolgheri Sassicaia

One of my absolute favorite wines in the world. This vintage does not disappoint again. A young wine, but it is a touch more accessible than others in the past. I must extol its virtues now… again. Beautiful nose of fruit and spice. The palate is fruit-forward but the fruit is not over-whelming. This has the perfect balance of acidity, tannins, alcohol and texture. A food wine AND excellent on its own. Just a classically elegant wine that can be drunk now, or bottle-aged to add nuance and approachability. Is your mouth watering? Mine is. The retail is listed at $200/btl at the local shop… is the QPR right? Well, what can you compare this to? I am not a fan of spending $200 on a bottle of wine. Although in this case, how do you even put that question in context?

WINE FLIGHT 3 – SICILIAN WINES (5 NOTES)

Italy, Sardinia, Isola dei Nuraghi IGT

Another wine that was difficult for me to score. I love Carignan when it is done well. This particular wine is to be experienced, not tasted. The silky mouth-feel is way past its price point. Though, the structure is missing balance. Decent acidity and only medium tannins leave a hole… that I could get past, others may not. I am a sucker for this kind of profile. Fruit forward spicy palate with black cherry, blackberry and plum. A medium long finish of mild dark chocolate. This is definitely better on its own, than with food.

Italy, Sicily, Sicilia IGT

Not your typical Nero d’Avola. I am familiar with this varietal as a dependable, low-cost, straight-forward table wine that consistently delivers good QPR. This wine has complex fruit flavors, with red, blue and black fruits. The backbone was decent, but the wine doesn’t fill your mouth like other examples of this varietal. A lightly spicy, chocolate character complements the entire palate. This wine has both more than I expected… and less. Sorry, I know this does not convey the tasting well. I would like to try this wine again, when I have more time to evaluate it, rather than at a tasting event.

Italy, Sicily, Noto

I was told Suckling gave this a 93. Apparently, his palate and mine are not close on Italian wines. There was significant complexity on the nose and palate, but the wine was too rich. The nose had a beautiful herbal mint undertone that I enjoyed. Either this wine had been oaked too long, or an extended maceration imparted a strong brown butter flavor. The wine has high acidity and only medium tannins. With more structure, it may have stood-up to the richness better. This may be one of those personal preference wines. Either a love it, or hate it kind of experience.

Italy, Sicily, Sicilia IGT

This Syrah is all wrong. No mouth-feel, poor structure, very light and the fruit is all red. It doesn’t work as a cool-climate Syrah either. This doesn’t fit into any category of Syrah I have tasted. I am told Wine Enthusiast gave this a 90. Whoa there, this is so NOT varietally correct for a 100% Syrah.

Italy, Sicily, Sicilia IGT

Probably another year, or two left in the drinking window for this one. This has a touch too much oak for my taste, but nevertheless a very good wine.  A big black cherry palate with lots of spicy character. Nice structure with medium-high acidity & tannins and is well balanced. This flavor profile leans toward cherry too much for this kind of blend, but still an enjoyable wine.

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Filed under Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Italian Wine, Nebbiolo, Piedmonte, Restaurant, Restaurant Review, Sangiovese, Super Tuscan Blend, Syrah/Shiraz, Toscana, Wine Education, Wine Tasting, Wine Tasting Notes

2004 Piccini Sasso al Poggio IGT

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Piccini Sasso al Poggio Toscana IGT

Italy, Tuscany, Chianti

Wine Tasting Note:

Folks, this is some serious wine for the price. After 30 minutes open, more black fruit is peeking out. I will be buying more, if I can find it… Subdued gamey, black fruit nose. Black cherry is on the front of the palate, blackberry, black currant and vanilla on the mid-palate moving towards dark chocolate with an herbal medium length finish that includes a touch of spearmint. The mouth-feel is a bit watery, but is very soft. Medium acidity with medium high tannins. This is not a fruity wine, but for those who appreciate complexity… for $10/btl this is your value wine. I am wrestling with the idea of whether I have tasted a better $10 bottle of wine… Italy continues to provide the biggest surprises in fine wine value in the world! OK, IMHO…

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Filed under Chianti IGT, Super Tuscan Blend, Wine Tasting Notes

2008 Tenute Folonari Cabreo Il Borgo Toscana IGT

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Tenute Folonari

Italy, Tuscany

Wine Tasting Note:

Black cherry, blackberry, with a bit of vanilla and earthiness on the nose. Black fruit with a touch of prune on the palate initially, softening to a mid-palate of vanilla and a slightly bitter medium length chocolate finish. Good acidity with medium tannins. Nice silky texture initially, that turned a bit chewy after a few hours. Complex enough to make it interesting, but I really wish some of that earth on the nose would have come through on the palate. I enjoyed this wine… would be a good aperitif, or food wine paired with red meat, or red tomato sauce dishes.

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Filed under Chianti IGT, Super Tuscan Blend, Toscana, Wine Tasting, Wine Tasting Notes

2006 Tenuta Monteti Monteti Toscana IGT

Tenuta Monteti IGT

Tenuta Monteti

Italy, Tuscany

Wine Tasting Note:

Not sure I have tasted a better bordeaux blend under $20 from any country. Nose of red plum, blackberry with slight vanilla, cinnamon and oak. The texture of this wine hits you like a ton of bricks – almost chewy. The 50% petit verdot is fantastic here. Good acidity, with medium tannins. Nice balance and structure. You can tell the fruit has begun to fade, but still has enough left to be fruit forward (must have been a bomb when young) with a big black fruit profile. I really like how this wine is totally dry on the palate, despite the fruit and vanilla. This would be a fantastic food wine for rich foods.

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Filed under Italian Wine, Maremma, Super Tuscan Blend, Toscana, Wine Tasting, Wine Tasting Notes

Sassicaia vs. Ornellaia Smackdown – The Battle of the Super Tuscans

In a recent trip to Italy, my wife and I stopped into Enoteca Tognoni and tasted all wines on tap.

In general for the price point, the wines tasted were disappointing, with a notable exception. All the wines were very much French Bordeaux in style, but missing the finesse of the fine wine making tradition in France. One of the exceptions was Tenuta San Guido. Sassicaia was a truly an amazing wine and far beyond the other wine there. We also tasted Le Macchiole, Ca’Marcanda, Sapaio, Guado al Tasso and Grattamacco, but the Sassicaia and Ornellaia were clearly above the others. Tasting notes below:

2009 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 95 Points

Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri

Tasted with a plate of prosciutto, cheese, olive oil and bread. Started just like a typical Super Tuscan… light texture, subdued alcohol, red and black cherry fruit with a dark chocolate finish… then, as you ponder what’s in the glass, the realization hits you. This wine is so well made, nothing is out of place and the entire experience is just right. All parts of the wine show themselves without overpowering. The texture is light, but silky and coats the mouth. There were strong tannins and acidity for a good backbone, but it did not prevent the wine from coming together. This wine presented a beautifully balanced, structured and harmonious profile.

2009 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Superiore Ornellaia 92 Points

Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri

Tasted with a plate of prosciutto, cheese, olive oil and bread. Again, a typical Super Tuscan… light texture, subdued alcohol, red and black cherry fruit with a dark chocolate finish. Definitely well made, but did not leave you with that “wow” factor. For the same rough price point (approx. $200/btl.), the Sassicaia had bowled me over, whereas the Ornellaia just had me thinking this is “pretty darn good”. Maybe a little too thin in comparison? There was good structure, with strong tannins and acidity here too.

Conclusion

Perhaps the comparison was unfair and it was simply that particular vintage, but the difference seemed to be in the vinification, rather than the quality of the fruit. Of course, it could just be a personal preference, but for me the Sassicaia was not only more accessible young, but showed tremendous bottle aging potential.

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Filed under Bolgheri, Cool Climate Wine, Italian Wine, Super Tuscan Blend, Toscana, Wine Collecting, Wine Tasting, Wine Tasting Notes, Wine Travel

Italian Wine Ramblings with 47 Tasting Notes

Italy Wine Adventure – Alto-Adige, Valpolicella, Soave, Bolgheri, Barbaresco & Barolo

General Comments on Italian Wine

Spent two weeks in Northern Italy visiting wineries. Used my Sommelier certification and wine consulting activities to arrange trade tastings at many wineries along the way. A few significant thoughts about the trip:

1) Pergola is starting to go away here and guyot is taking its place. Along with it, the practice of dropping fruit to improve concentration is becoming common. Very glad to see!
2) Every red wine producer I visited fermented in stainless steel, with automated pump-over. The wines were easily noticeable as less manipulated, more vintage character coming through each year and the tannins were finer than I am used to in the U.S.
3) NO AGING IN AMERICAN OAK! Generally, even limited contact with new French oak. I found myself missing the oak from these wines and having to adjust my palate. Although, the wines all clearly had a fresher fruit characteristic because of it.
4) All red wine producers worked with varietals and winemaking technique that tended to focus the wine away from texture. IMHO, the best wines here were those that focused on taking the local style and move it towards an emphasis on mouth-feel in the final product.
5) The red wines I enjoyed most, all seemed to have an element of mushroom, or wet earth on the nose. Not sure why that was, but consistently true for me on this trip. VERY STRANGE.
6) Also, a bitter dark chocolate finish of varying length and power was a characteristic of most red wines I tasted. When it was missing, the wines tasted incomplete.
7) FOOD – Don’t miss Piemonte… It is hard to describe how special this area is for a wonderful dining experience. No other region we visited was even close.
8) Barbera d’Alba is one of the best wine values in Italy and while it is a completely different wine, does not get enough respect in comparison to the Barolo and Barbaresco produced in the same region.
9) Almost all of the wine we drank in Italy was pretty good, even at $10Eur/btl. In my small sampling on this trip, it could be the Italian wine industry has a much better grasp of how to make reasonably good, value priced daily drinkers. The premium end of the fine wines was another story. I felt like there were only a few wineries that stood-out, but of course nowhere else is Nebbiolo like this.

I was very disappointed to have lost my Conterno Fantino and Cigliuti tasting notes. Great people and very good wine. I will limit the flights to the more notable visits. Too much content to bore you all with. For perspective on my tasting notes – I do not enjoy white wine, unless there is minerality. Start off with my impressions by region:

Trento-Alto-Adige

The clear winner here is Terlan. Simply fantastic white wines. The minerality is so heavy here, that they have to chip out precipitated minerals at the bottom of their large Hungarian Oak barrels every 8-10 years. They call it wine rock! The winery popped some 20 year old pinot bianco for us. These white wines age VERY WELL! So glad to have found this winery. It is something special in the world of white wines.

Valpolicella

This is the one area I wish I would have planned more time with. My life experience with Valpolicella Classico has not impressed me over much, but I have not really spent the money to explore Amarone, Ripasso and Recioto… my loss. These are truly exceptional wines. What I have been missing all these years…. aaaaah, lost opportunity.

Soave

Again, another area that has under-impressed over the years. In my experience, limited to lower priced wines selected by importers. I found a VERY SPECIAL producer here: Pieropan. I will seek out their white wine in the U.S.

Bolgheri

The wines tasted here generally were disappointing, with some notable exceptions. Very much, French Bordeaux style wines, but missing the fine wine making tradition to make the wine special. One of the very notable exceptions was Tenuta San Guido. Sassicaia was a truly amazing wine and so far beyond the other wine there, it was tragic.

Barbaresco

I fell in love with the Nebbiolo wines from this area. It is a pity the area is geographically so tiny and has such small production.

Barolo

This area was hit or miss for me. The better wineries here seemed to zero-in on making these massive tannins as fine as possible. When accomplished – FANTASTIC! When not, wines that will take 20 years before you can touch.

FLIGHT 1 – ALTO-ADIGE (12 NOTES)

Terlan was amazing. Producing Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco (among other varietals) that handle age very well. Maybe not like Riesling, but certainly for a dry white… as interesting as White Burgundy. Their terroir produces wines with so much minerality that they have to chip out the precipitated minerals from the barrels every 8-10 years. They call it wine stone! Also, barrel aging (in lieu of bottle aging) of whites is very common here. They showed us a 1996 Chardonnay still in the barrel! Visited Foradori… very disappointed after reading some of the CellarTracker notes and professional reviews. Very old style vineyard management. Many of their vineyards were still arranged in the Pergola style and with this varietal, the harvest looked enormous. No dropping of fruit here to add concentration. Wines were all thin and undrinkable young.

2000 Cantina Terlan Chardonnay 93 Points

Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige, Alto Adige – Südtirol

This winery has changed my perception of Italian white wine. Chardonnay with dimension and complexity! This terroir produces Burgundy quality Chardonnay suitable for aging. 13 year-old Chardonnay with a powerful nose of lemon curd, red apple and a floral aspect. This follows through to a fruit forward palate with nice stoney minerality. Medium high acidity. The time in the bottle has crafted a beautifully balanced wine.

2010 Cantina Terlan Nova Domus Riserva 90 Points

Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige, Terlano

White blend. Nose of citrus and mown grass. Palate of citrus at front and then carmelized butter from mid-palate through to a long finish. As typical of Terlan – mineral overtones. They have really coaxed the lees into providing extracted flavors and texture. Only neutral oak.

2011 Cantina Terlan Sauvignon Blanc Quarz 88 Points

Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige, Terlano

Grassy on the nose. Palate of citrus and fresh mown grass, finishing with very noticeable minerality. I was aware of more alcohol than I would prefer. Very strong acidity with a refreshing bite. The nice structure moved the score higher to offset some of the other characteristics.

2011 Cantina Terlan Gewürztraminer Lunare 88 Points

Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige, Alto Adige – Südtirol

Nose of red roses that carries through to the palate. Very interesting, but too floral on the palate to be really enjoyable. Typical Gewurtz spice on the finish. Very strong acidity. Score reflects the unusual predominance of the rich red rose aroma. I could get lost in the nose on this wine.

2010 Cantina Terlan Lagrein Porphyr Riserva 88 Points

Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige, Alto Adige – Südtirol

Nose of red fruit with a buttery aspect. Fruit forward, lighter textured wine with raspberry and red cherry on the palate finishing with a medium short finish of dark chocolate. Medium tannins and acidity. Seemed like a cross between Sangiovese and Pinot Noir profiles. Good structure for a lighter style red.

1996 Cantina Terlan Pinot Bianco Classico 92 Points

Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige, Terlano

Wow, another beautiful aged white at Terlan! Nose of carmelized butter and honey that carries through to the palate. Completely dry though. Fruit is almost gone, but the structure is there. Very, very soft on the palate with mouth-watering high acidity. Mineral overtones that come through at the finish. Whole different experience than the aged Chardonnay, but almost as profound!

2011 Cantina Terlan Chardonnay Kreuth 91 Points

Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige, Alto Adige – Südtirol

This winery knows how to handle Chardonnay in a Burgundy style. The nose is full of butter with a palate of fruit forward red apple and quince. Has a long buttery finish. High acidity gives this very good structure and the usual Terlan mineral overtones are there too. Very nice mouth-coating texture. Good structure and balance and very enjoyable. If the other aged Chardonnays we tasted are any indication, this will age well too. Terlan ages many of their white wines in the barrel, rather than the bottle. Maybe a contributing factor to how well some vintages hold-up over time? Their sales agent showed us a 1996 Chardonnay still in the barrel!

2005 Cantina Terlan Sauvignon Winkl 90 Points

Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige, Terlano

Northern Italy can really pull New World flavors out of Sauv Blanc! This wine had a very strong honeysuckle and orange blossom nose that carried through to the palate with a long salted butter finish. Texture was a bit heavier, but I enjoyed the weight. Very soft, but off-setting high acidity. A very pretty Sauv Blanc. Putting some age on it, really developed the wine.

2012 Cantina Terlan Terlaner Classico 88 Points

Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige, Terlano

White blend. Nose of honeysuckle. The alcohol is a too prevalent for my liking in a white wine. The palate is full of honey and fruit-forward pineapple with mineral overtones. Very viscous texture. Medium high acidity. Interesting flavor profile for an Italian white, but a bit disjointed and the alcohol was immediately obvious.

2012 Cantina Terlan Pinot Bianco Classico 87 Points

Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige, Terlano

This would be a good food wine for white meats… Very acidic. Citrus on the nose, but very little fruit on the palate. Very crisp, fresh profile with a mineral edge, but all very subtle. After having tasted the 1996 Pinot Bianco, this may have enough structure to age and improve. It would be interesting to try this again in another 5 years. This whole aging white wine approach is new to me. I have tasted the result at Terlan and it works, but I do not have enough experience tasting aged whites to have a good feel. Wine… a lifetime of learning.

2012 Cantina Terlan Pinot Grigio 88 Points

Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige, Alto Adige – Südtirol

Nose of citrus and flowers. Fresh lemon on the palate with a medium long finish of honeydew melon. Nice, medium texture to add interest. More substantial than many lighter, less tasty Italian Pinot Grigios I have had.

2012 Cantina Terlan Chardonnay 87 Points

Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige, Alto Adige – Südtirol

A touch frizzante. Heavy mineral nose of wet rocks. The lemon zest on the nose carries through to a palate of subdued lemon with minerality… that continues in the mouth to a medium long finish. Very acidic. Medium texture. Would be better with food than as an aperitif.

FLIGHT 2 – VALPOLICELLA & SOAVE (7 NOTES)

Oh, I wish we had more time here. Allegrini was outstanding. Very experimental with wines produced from dried grapes, beyond Amarone and Ripasso.

2012 Pieropan Soave Classico Superiore 90 Points

Italy, Veneto, Soave

Drank a bottle with my wife at a restaurant in Soave with a beautiful garden patio at sunset with prosciutto, assorted cheese and crusty bread. This wine is not vineyard designate, but had the “Superiore” “reserve” designation printed on the label. No specific tasting notes, but this white wine made an impression, for both its profile AND its value. The first impression is of the texture… beautifully soft and silky, coats the mouth, (no oak) but with very high acidity. Very balanced. Fully integrated profile. Great nose of candied lemon peel and mineral. The nose carries through to the palate. Very fruit forward, but also completely dry and very acidic. I know the Soave available in the U.S. has a reputation for variable quality, but this wine truly surprised me and is the best Soave I have tasted!

2011 Allegrini Ripasso della Valpolicella 88 Points

Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella

Smokey nose. Fruit forward palate of black cherry and black pepper. Medium short finish of lingering smoke. Lighter texture with a minimum of mouth feel.

2009 Allegrini Recioto della Valpolicella Classico Giovanni 89 Points

Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella

First Recioto for me and I like it! Nose was very much like port, it had me fooled. The palate was full of bright red fresh cherries. Nice texture that fit the overall impression. A medium finish of sweet prune. Good acidity. This was nice! They do not stop the fermentation short to leave residual sugar, but add to the mixture for sweetness. The sweetness was not overpowering and the fruit was fresher than port.

2010 Allegrini La Grola Veronese IGT 92 Points

Italy, Veneto

I really enjoyed this wine. Put a few years on it and the score will be higher. I was told some of the assemblage came from apassiemento style fruit. I like the way it added to the texture of the wine. The blend of Corvina and Syrah provided a nice cross-section of black cherry and plum flavors with some spice. Fruit stays with you for a nice long finish. Strong tannins and medium acidity. I think this wine will come together in the bottle and improve. I hope I can find it in the U.S.

2010 Allegrini Palazzo della Torre Veronese IGT 89 Points

Italy, Veneto

Blend. Nose of black cherry and plum that carries through to the palate. The blend adds more interest to the Corvina alone. Strong tannins and acidity. Very light texture, but with good structure and backbone.

2011 Allegrini Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 86 Points

Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella

Plum and prune on the palate with a good amount of black pepper. Tannins are strong and sharp. Long bitter finish. I didn’t care for this style of Amarone.

2011 Allegrini Valpolicella Classico 87 Points

Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella

Nose of black cherry and pepper with unresolved alcohol. Palate of sour black cherry and spice. Very light texture with medium tannins and acidity. Basic flavor profile and alcohol is too prevalent.

FLIGHT 3 – BOLGHERI (17 NOTES)

Overall, disappointed with the wine here. If wine is made in a lighter style, there needs to be SOME mouth-feel, otherwise the wine just seems like alcoholic flavored water. When most wines are produced in re-used French Oak barriques… the neutral oak doesn’t add anything to the wine. Sassicaia had it all though. A lighter French Bordeaux style blend… but with very fine tannins, a silky mouth-feel and EXTREMELY well integrated and balanced. The only way to describe is – perfectly harmonious. VERY well made!

2011 Castello di Bolgheri Varvàra 89 Points

Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri

Nose of blackberry and graphite. Fruit forward on the palate with blackberry and plum and a long dark chocolate finish. Nice easy drinking Super-Tuscan blend.

2010 Castello di Bolgheri Superiore 91 Points

Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri

Nose of black cherry and flowers and hint of tobacco. Good balance between acidity and tannins. Accessible now, but could put 10 years of age on this in your cellar. Fruit on the front of blackberry and plum, with a light tobacco flavor on the mid-palate and a medium length dark chocolate finish. Nice effort at a reasonable price.

2010 Michele Satta Giovin Re 88 Points

Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri

Big Viognier. Nose of citrus and pineapple that follows through to the palate. Nice viscous texture with off-setting high acidity.

2011 Michele Satta Rosso 87 Points

Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri

Simple red blend. Nose of fresh red cherry. Palate of red and black cherry. Light acidity with strong tannins. Thinner texture with long slightly bitter finish.

2010 Michele Satta Piastraia 86 Points

Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri

Simple red blend. Almost no nose. Sangiovese driven palate of sour red cherry. Short finish of a touch of dark chocolate. Table wine meant for food.

2009 Michele Satta Syrah IGT 89 Points

Italy, Tuscany

Nose of plum and black cherry. Fruit forward on the palate with black cherry and raspberry flavors. Decent backbone of tannins and acidity and a medium long dark chocolate finish. More red fruit than I am used to in a syrah.

2006 Michele Satta Cavaliere IGT 88 Points

Italy, Tuscany

Nose of bright red cherry and earth. Very soft on the palate with bright red cherry and a light cream sensation, but an unusual short bitter finish. Fairly enjoyable, but a bit of a disjointed experience.

2006 Michele Satta Superiore I Castagni 89 Points

Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri

Nose of bright red cherry. Fruit forward on the palate carrying the fresh red cherry in front with a mid-palate moving to black cherry flavors and a long finish of fresh cream moving to a dark chocolate at the end. Strong tannins and acidity. Interesting wine.

2012 Poggio al Tesoro Vermentino Solosole IGT 87 Points

Italy, Tuscany

Vermentino. Lemon rind and curdled milk nose. Light frizzante style with a distinct flavor of prepared lemonade. Medium acidity. Simple, straight-forward flavor profile.

2007 Poggio San Polo 88 Points

Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

Nose and palate of bright red fresh cherries. Very light texture with strong tannins. Medium high acidity. Flavor profile was very one dimensional, but pleasant enough.

2009 Poggio al Tesoro Sondraia 87 Points

Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri

Nose of earthy mushroom and alcohol. Palate of black cherry with a long bitter dark chocolate finish. Strong tannins and medium acidity. Alcohol was not integrated and overpowered the perception of the wine. Flavor profile not balanced. Not sure this will come together.

2008 Poggio al Tesoro Dedicato a Walter IGT 88 Points

Italy, Tuscany

100% Cab Franc. Earthy mushroom nose. Fruit forward palate of bright red fresh cherries. Very light texture. Very high tannins and acidity. Clean, clear red fruit. A tad simple in its approach.

2011 Campo alla Sughera Arioso IGT 87 Points

Italy, Tuscany

Nose of lemon zest and steel. The palate was very clean and fresh, fruit forward and exactly like a lemon drop. Dry, with medium acidity. The fruit had a bit too much of a candied flavor for my taste.

2011 Campo alla Sughera Achenio 87 Points

Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri

Blend. Nose of lemon and oak. Palate of fresh lemon and oak. Good acidity and some structure. Viscous mouth-coating texture. Many of these Italian wineries seem to have mastered affecting the wines by aging on the lees. I think the oak may mask the sauv blanc notes (would have added some complexity). Lemon has been the consistent fruit theme for Tuscan white wine… ready for something different.

2010 Campo alla Sughera Adèo 88 Points

Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri

Super Tuscan blend. Nose of mushroom and black cherry. Palate of plum and black cherry in front with a long bitter dark chocolate finish. Not much of a mid-palate. Medium tannins and medium acidity. Very one-dimensional, but drinks reasonably well.

2008 Campo alla Sughera Arnione 88 Points

Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri

Nose of wet earth and black cherry. Texture is light, but the bit of Petit Verdot adds some substance. The palate has plum and black cherry in front with a short bit of dark chocolate on the finish. Tannins are strong and dusty with medium high acidity. Probably will mature and bring the tannins and acidity into balance, but needs to have more mid-palate, complexity and finish to be really interesting and elevate it.

2008 Campo alla Sughera Grappa Di Arnione 92 Points

Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri

I really enjoyed this. My favorite product from this winery. Grappa is not usually for my palate, but this had exceptional flavor and texture. Very nutty on the nose… loved the aroma. There was a little fruit in front with a long finish of hazelnut. Very smooth. The alcohol had some bite, as you would expect and the acidity added some structure. This stuff is dangerous! I could have sat on that couch picked up a good book and sipped it all day…

FLIGHT 4 – BAROLO & BARBARESCO (9 NOTES)

Oh my gosh! Nebbiolo heaven. No other region in the world can come close to doing this with the Nebbiolo grape. Cigliutti was the stand-out for me here. My gosh, in a lighter style, no more beautiful wine on the planet. Visited Paolo Scavino also. Good Barolo and Barolo cru, but nothing particularly notable.

2012 Azienda Monsordo Bernardina (Ceretto) Arneis Blangé 87 Points

Italy, Piedmont, Langhe

Very little color in the glass. Nose of citrus and pear. Light frizzante style. Soft texture, medium acidity, with pear and lemon on the palate. Missing the structure and minerality I prefer in a white.

2009 Azienda Bricco Rocche (Ceretto) Prapò 88 Points

Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

Nose was completely absent. Fresh red cherry on the palate, medium tannins and acidity. Short caramel finish. Perhaps too early for the wine to come together, but this will not be a vintage for extended aging.

2010 Azienda Monsordo Bernardina (Ceretto) Monsordo 88 Points

Italy, Piedmont, Langhe

A bordeaux style blend for the international market. Nose of brown sugar, blackberry, earth and green bell pepper. Soft in the mouth with plum and blackberry fruit, black pepper moving to green bell pepper on the mid-palate and a medium length finish of dark chocolate. Strong tannins, but light acidity. The under-ripe cab sauv was evident in the mid-palate, but not over-powering. Not very complex, easy drinking red blend.

2010 Azienda Bricco Asili (Ceretto) Bernardot 89 Points

Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

Nose of earthy mushroom and flowers. Beautiful silky texture. Red cherry in front moving to black cherry in the mid-palate. Strong tannins and medium acidity with a medium length dark chocolate finish. Wine struck me as lacking some structure and balance, but a very nice wine. 89+… It may come around after some time in the bottle.

2009 Azienda Bricco Rocche (Ceretto) Brunate 86 Points

Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

Nose of earth, mushroom and black cherry. After about 10 mins., adds a strong caramel note. On the palate the texture was very thin, tannins were not bold like typical Barolo and only medium acidity (perhaps the vintage?). Red cherry flavors with a mid-palate of loamy earth and a short finish of caramel. This wine was too watery in the mouth.

2011 Conterno Fantino Monprà 90 Points

Italy, Piedmont, Langhe

Very nice new world style blend of Barbera and Nebbiolo. Medium tannins and medium acidity. Mouth-coating texture with a fruit-forward palate of red and black fruit. Hint of dark chocolate on the finish. 50/50 mix of Langhe Barbera and Nebbiolo and you can recognize the two distinct varietals easily here. Step above your typical Italian Barbera table wine at a nice price.

2009 Conterno Fantino Riserva Sorì Ginestra 94 Points

Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

I thought, the best Barolo Cru of the trip. Nose of cherry and earthy mushroom. Non-traditional 2009 warm vintage puts the fruit out front with red and black cherry and a long finish of dark chocolate. Strong tannins and acidity for a fine backbone. Approachable now, but you could easily put 10 years on this. I don’t think this will take decades of aging like some Barolos. This is a wonderful example of of everything good about Barolo, with a new world influence. Great structure and balance.

2009 G.D. Vajra Barbera d’Alba Superiore 92 Points

Italy, Piedmont, Alba

Holy cow! The richest Barbera I have tasted hands down! Drank at a restaurant in the Langhe area, no notes. Complex palate of red and black fruit and a mouth-coating texture. Long finish of fruit and dark chocolate. Medium high acidity and medium tannins. So different from the Barbera d’Alba we have been drinking here. Great for an aperitif! Not a refined, pretty wine, just a big bruiser. I hope I can find this in the U.S.

2009 Cigliuti Serraboella 96 Points

Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

My favorite wine of the two weeks tasting in Italy and a great value for a quality Barbaresco! Interesting vintage. Warmest year of several warm years in the last decade and producers know this fruit-forward style matches the new world export market better, but the old guard will not call these vintages “typical” Barbaresco. I was very disappointed to have lost my notes from this winery. Two sisters run the vineyards/winery with their father and they were wonderfully accommodating. All the wines were of high quality, but this Barbaresco was special. Everything that makes Barbaresco beautiful and more of it. Super soft in the mouth, but with strong tannins and acidity – sexy, without being too plush. Little funk on the nose and minerality on the palate with a long, lingering finish. Just great structure and balance. Very accessible for such a recent vintage. Couldn’t help myself… bought a half case to lug back to the U.S.! More tasting notes in years to come!

FLIGHT 5 – SASSICAIA VS. ORNELLAIA (2 NOTES)

The original Super Tuscan smack-down! Stopped in at Enoteca Tognoni and tasted everything on tap! We also tasted Le Macchiole, Ca’Marcanda, Sapaio, Guado al Tasso and Grattamacco, but the Sassicaia and Ornellaia was so much more enjoyable than the others.

2009 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 95 Points

Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri

Sassicaia vs. Ornellaia Smack-Down – Tasted with a plate of prosciutto, cheese, olive oil and bread. No notes. This wine was the single outstanding bright spot in Bolgheri on this trip. Started as a typical Super Tuscan… light texture, subdued alcohol, red and black cherry fruit with a dark chocolate finish… then, at the end it hits you. This wine is so well made, everything just is as it should be. All flavors show themselves without overpowering. The texture is light, but silky and coats the mouth. Strong tannins and acidity, but neither is too much to prevent the wine from coming together. This wine presents a beautifully balanced, structured and harmonious profile.

2009 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Ornellaia 92 Points

Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri

Sassicaia vs. Ornellaia Smack-Down – Tasted with a plate of prosciutto, cheese, olive oil and bread. No notes. Typical Super Tuscan… light texture, subdued alcohol, red and black cherry fruit with a dark chocolate finish. Well made, but doesn’t leave you with that “wow” factor. For the same rough price point, the Sassicaia bowled me over, whereas the Ornellaia just had me thinking this is “pretty darn good”. Maybe a little too thin in comparison? Strong tannins and acidity. Perhaps the comparison was unfair and it was simply that particular vintage, but the difference seemed to be in the vinification, rather than the quality of the fruit. Of course, it could just be a personal preference and my palate matches the Sassicaia better…

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