Tag Archives: fine wine

October 26, 2013 · 11:05 PM

Sassicaia vs. Ornellaia Smackdown – The Battle of the Super Tuscans

In a recent trip to Italy, my wife and I stopped into Enoteca Tognoni and tasted all wines on tap.

In general for the price point, the wines tasted were disappointing, with a notable exception. All the wines were very much French Bordeaux in style, but missing the finesse of the fine wine making tradition in France. One of the exceptions was Tenuta San Guido. Sassicaia was a truly an amazing wine and far beyond the other wine there. We also tasted Le Macchiole, Ca’Marcanda, Sapaio, Guado al Tasso and Grattamacco, but the Sassicaia and Ornellaia were clearly above the others. Tasting notes below:

2009 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 95 Points

Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri

Tasted with a plate of prosciutto, cheese, olive oil and bread. Started just like a typical Super Tuscan… light texture, subdued alcohol, red and black cherry fruit with a dark chocolate finish… then, as you ponder what’s in the glass, the realization hits you. This wine is so well made, nothing is out of place and the entire experience is just right. All parts of the wine show themselves without overpowering. The texture is light, but silky and coats the mouth. There were strong tannins and acidity for a good backbone, but it did not prevent the wine from coming together. This wine presented a beautifully balanced, structured and harmonious profile.

2009 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Superiore Ornellaia 92 Points

Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri

Tasted with a plate of prosciutto, cheese, olive oil and bread. Again, a typical Super Tuscan… light texture, subdued alcohol, red and black cherry fruit with a dark chocolate finish. Definitely well made, but did not leave you with that “wow” factor. For the same rough price point (approx. $200/btl.), the Sassicaia had bowled me over, whereas the Ornellaia just had me thinking this is “pretty darn good”. Maybe a little too thin in comparison? There was good structure, with strong tannins and acidity here too.

Conclusion

Perhaps the comparison was unfair and it was simply that particular vintage, but the difference seemed to be in the vinification, rather than the quality of the fruit. Of course, it could just be a personal preference, but for me the Sassicaia was not only more accessible young, but showed tremendous bottle aging potential.

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October 24, 2013 · 9:15 PM

Wine & the Football Couch Potato

My wife and I started our wine country vacations nearly twenty years ago. Not very long after, we began collecting wines. At first, we stored the wine in racks, then later in expensive environmentally controlled cellars. Initially, we bottle-aged reds only, then whites and finally sparkling. A couple of years ago, I was formally trained in a classroom, passed the Sommelier exam and received my certification. It has been a wild and crazy ride. If this already has you thinking, “I could do that!”… It is time to accept your secret inner wine-o and warn your children. The first one to move out will lose his/her bedroom to a well-decorated, Tuscan themed wine room!

The Transformation

I graduated from a beer and whiskey drinking male stereotype, to someone who spends a good chunk of his income on fine food and wine. How the heck does THAT happen? I think my path broke the mold when it comes to your typical wine-o/foodie archetype. For the 6-pack of Budweiser Sunday football guys everywhere (old me), I will attempt to look deep inside and reveal the wonder of this miraculous change.

1. Romance

No, not that namby-pamby touchy-feely kind. When a guy figures out that your honey can be talked into just about anything, after a few bottles of REALLY GOOD red wine on a patio overlooking a beautiful vineyard, you will understand the connection between wine and hormones.

2. “Mellow Buzz”

The red wine effect is unlike any other alcoholic beverage. You feel good, warm inside, relaxed, sexy, friendly and all the world’s problems are thoroughly pointless.

3. Social Connections

You meet people when enjoying the wine country and drinking wine. It adds friends to your circle and you get the extra added benefit of impressing them with your manly description of floral aromas.

4. Cheap Wine vs. the Good Stuff

If only I had never traveled to Napa that first time, it would have saved me at least $100K over the last 10 years. Before that trip, I had never spent more than $15 on a bottle of red wine and it was all pretty awful. Had I been born in Italy, where the difference between cheap wine and the good stuff is not as great (topic for another day), my life would have been entirely different. I would have been wealthier, closer to retirement, much more good looking and writing this post from my villa on the Tuscany coast.

5. Crazy Flavors in Wine

How the heck do you make grape juice taste like graphite, or tobacco? Or for that matter… mint, bacon, or eucalyptus? The big guy upstairs really put some mojo in those grapes!

6. Adventure

Terroir is more than a Dictionary definition, it is a wonderfully engaging concept. Not just from the perspective of its impact on flavors, but the idea of “place” it brings with it. With every new wine region, it brings new expressions of different varietals, new flavors and aromas… and provides a very different experience. Tie that to the regional cuisines associated with each and you have an endless journey of discovery.

The Journey

There it is. I never pushed. I was always drawn along the path. Ladies, want to see if that Sunday football couch potato can transform into the kind of guy that talks YOU into a vacation in the wine country… here’s your template. Best of luck though, while he may become that dreamboat you always wanted, he is sure to be in the poorhouse begging for foie gras on the nearest street corner!

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October 20, 2013 · 4:17 PM

Managing a Personal Wine Collection

Years back I realized… once the number of bottles you lay down exceeds your ability to remember them, one of two things will happen:

  1. Curse your aging brain and struggle on

  2. Give in and realize there must be a better way

WHY Manage Stored Wine?

Initially, I was too proud to give-in and track my wine. After the issue bubbled to the surface (added sparkling to my cellar 🙂 ) it became clear, not having the ability to generate a list, or establish drinking windows, significantly affected our enjoyment of the wine. It doesn’t matter whether you drink wine daily, or just on the weekend. You will begin to realize (as I did), managing your wine inventory is a key component to maximizing your investment and enhancing your wine experience. So, the next step is to go totally overboard (like the crazy person I am) and put the program together.

Pick Your App/Software

I settled on CellarTracker. That has turned out to be a good decision. I highly recommend this cloud-based app, not just for cellar management, but for the tasting notes and the community too.

Separate the Inventory to be Bottle-Aged

So you disturb this wine as little as possible.

Identify the lower-priced daily-drinkers and rack separately

You will go through this wine quickly enough. It will not require a controlled environment.

Calculate your annual consumption of bottle-aged wines

Let’s round your hypothetical collection to 100 bottles (insert your own quantity). One possibility – assume you drink a nice bottle every other weekend, or round to 25 btls/yr. Purchase your wines to be bottle aged separately from those for drinking now. In this scenario, simply buy 25 bottles for aging every year… this assumes that every wine has the same aging capacity. The annual number of bottles is important. Knowing your number will save you money down the road, when competitively shopping your purchases. Don’t forget to add wine to your calculation and include a party, or two and a few dinners with friends and wine…

Wine Purchases Should be Planned

Plan Purchases so groupings of your aged wine will be constantly maturing and ready to drink

I can’t think of a better reason to diversify your cellar with Red Blends, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, etc. These varietals (depending on winemaker’s style) typically bottle age at different rates. If you can’t wait the 3-4 years it takes to develop your own collection of 5+ year old aged wines, supplement your buying with older vintages from auction sites (like WinBid.com, WineCommune.com, Hart-Davis Hart), or you can ensure provenance by buying from well-known brokers (like Benchmark).

OK, I am outed. I am a real wine geek.

Just to let you know, these are some of the same basic strategies needed for managing a commercial wine cellar. Coming down the pike… more posts on: Why cellar wine? and Wine Buying Strategies (in states where laws allow).

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October 19, 2013 · 11:11 AM

The 100 Point Wine Rating Scale has Become…

As wine media has begun reaching the consumer and wine critics are becoming rock stars… You have to ask yourself, just exactly how does this rating system work? On many websites, you will find an attempt at an explanation that reflects how the major critics SEEM to interpret it, but… does anyone really know definitively? There are no hard and fast rules. So hear is a quick look under the hood from the perspective of using the ratings as a method of selecting wines for your cellar.

As you walk through wine websites, you begin to notice there are virtually no ratings under 80, or over 95. I think the worst rating I have ever given a wine is 82. Of course this seems absurd, but regardless, if this is the standard… what do the ratings really mean? If you are the type that needs to make sense of this mess, follow me on my journey.

Criteria for the System

What exactly do the ratings evaluate: drinkability, age-worthiness, structure, balance? How do you compare entirely different styles using the scale: red, white, old-world, new world, sweet, fortified, etc. I am sure you get my drift here. Every critic’s wine notes and evaluation process is based on a different standard, therefore there is no frame of reference for the consumer. So, do the ratings have any real value, or are they just marketing ploys? Well, perhaps the intent is entirely marketing-focused, but I believe I have found ways the ratings can assist me in my wine purchasing decisions:

Assumptions

The majority of wine critics (AND fine wines collectors) have developed an educated palate. This assumption is important and I think largely true. I know for myself, I may not like a wine that others view as enjoyable, but that does not mean I cannot appreciate its quality. If the winemaker has produced a quality wine in its structure, balance and extracted flavors/aromas… I will not give it a poor score, even when I do not care for the wine personally. Again, I think this to be largely the case with the most (but not all) professional/semi-professional critics. the breaking point here for me is at 90. If the wine is rated 90, or over from several sources, odds are – it is a quality wine… but that does not guarantee that YOU will enjoy it. It is simply a place to start weeding out bottles not worth the investment. In my case, I know, I am missing many wines I might enjoy in the 85-89 range, but I try to visit wineries to sample what I can of those.

Callibrating Your Palate

Calibrate a particular critic’s palate to yours. Take a few minutes to taste wine and compare your impressions to the critics ratings and find one that generally matches your impressions. In my case, of the major critics, I think Stephen Tanzer is the closest to my palate. It is worth the time to find your match. I place a little more weight on an evaluation, when ST writes the note. Again that is just me personally.

Should the System be Changed?

I have read and many have explained to me that winemaking technology has improved tremendously over the last two decades and therefore there truly is no more “bad” wine… which is the reason why ratings do not drop below 80 any longer. I am willing to accept that, but if that is the case, then we MUST move to another system. I also believe a criteria for a new ratings system needs to be established. When I choose to purchase wines I have not tasted, here is my criteria:

  • Structure and balance: acidity, tannins, all the parts work together? Fuller, rounder wine with a mid-palate?
  • Fruit: fruit-forward, or not
  • Texture: wine coats your mouth, or crisp and clean
  • Terroir: the wine includes an expression of the local terroir?
  • Finish: flavors linger?

IMHO, if we rated each of these categories 1-10, that would provide a useful wine rating and evaluation!

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October 9, 2013 · 4:33 AM

Value Wines in California

What represents value in wine?

Quality vs. price, or drinkability vs. price? I choose the former, rather than the latter. Structure, acidity, tannins, texture are all important components of an enjoyable, rather than boring wine.

Hidden Gems

Cab Sauv Daily Drinker

Geyser Peak Walking Tree Vineyard

Street price – $15-$20/btl.

Syrah Daily Drinker

Andrew Murray (all releases)

Club pricing – $20-$30/btl.

Zinfandel Daily Drinker

Peachy Canyon Westside Vineyard

Street price – $15-$20/btl.

Pinot Noir Daily Drinker

Meiomi Belle Glos

Street price – $15-20/btl. (killed me not to pick an Oregon pinot here)

Premium Merlot

Paloma. Definitely the BEST U.S. made merlot being produced today.

$60/btl. from the winery a great value

Premium Cabernet Sauvignon

Jordan

Street price – $45-$55/btl.

Premium Old World Style Cabernet Sauvignon

Ladera

Street price – $65-$70/btl.

Premium Pinot Noir

Inman Family OGV

Street price – $35-40/btl.

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October 9, 2013 · 4:08 AM

The 3-Step Distribution Melodrama

Wine in the U.S. will eventually follow the same market maturation process as most other industries. Consolidation is happening everywhere. The protection of the legislated 3-step distribution model cannot last forever. The business logistics model has an inherent cost and marketing advantage… Small independent wineries will have to embrace the consumer direct model and the internet, and/or do the hard work of building a local/regional presence to prosper. Look at where the craft breweries are going with their marketing model… Controlling your destiny by finding your own customer base should become the answer. Small business failure is unfortunate, but real-world. It will do no good to rail at the unfairness of change. Business owner’s need to move forward. The market rewards those who engage their customers and offer perceived value. The creativity to provide industry leadership will be recognized and rewarded in the end.

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July 13, 2013 · 8:18 PM

Great Classified Bordeaux under $100/btl?

Classic Bordeaux

Having developed my palate with California wines, the last five years I have been on a mission to find aged Classified Bordeaux I enjoy under $100 and trying to justify the value vs. old world style blends out of California. These selections are based on my personal palate and preferences and were purchased under $100/btl…

2006 Pontet Canet

The clear winner. Lighter more refined Old World character, but still fruit forward. Fantastic balance with great structure.

Leoville Barton, Rauzan Segla

Honorable mention.

Napa Equivalents to Classic Bordeaux

Here is the problem – for every enjoyable aged Classified Bordeaux under $100, there is a California equivalent for at least 25% less. In my opinion, the closest Napa producers to Old World European styles are in the Howell Mountain area.

2006 Ladera

The clear New World winner. Similar to Pontet Canet, a lighter more refined style, but still fruit forward. Good balance with great structure.

Anderson’s Conn Valley and Seavey

Very old world, very good AND 25% less.

Justify Paying $100+/btl for Bordeaux?

Is there a justification for paying the premium? In my case, I buy a small selection of Bordeaux… just to be able to compare and add diversity to my cellar.

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July 13, 2013 · 3:17 PM

Defining “Cool Climate” Wines

Everything in the wine world seems better evaluated in the context of its impact on taste: terroir, winemaking technique, storage, etc. Ultimately, all processes have the potential to impact taste and should be considered in both qualitative and quantitative terms regarding their impact on flavors and aromas in the final product.

So what is “cool climate” and why is it important to wine? “Cool Climate” wine can be defined as any wine made from a warm climate wine grape varietal grown in a region where the temps are in the lower range of the vines’ tolerance. The challenge for growers is there must also be sufficient sunlight to ripen the grapes. So, the quality of the fruit tends to be higher in areas where the growing season has enough sunlight to ripen the grapes and enhance the development of phenols, but cool to cold nights to raise the acidity. These wines tend to have structure, be more balanced, have less alcohol, include more complexity, have higher acidity and generally be more interesting. If big, fruity, alcoholic wines like many Napa Cabs are your faves, this category of wine may not be on top of your list…

I think most everyone would agree, white wines are just not interesting enough, unless grown in cool climate regions, but red wines are an entirely different matter. Many warm climate red regions produce excellent reds, i.e. Southern France, Spain and Italy. I have tasted cool climate produced syrahs, tempranillos, cabernet sauvs and cabernet francs. In my opinion, cabernet becomes too vegetal when grown in climates that push the cooler temp angle too much. Whereas syrah in particular, benefits greatly from this approach. My favorite red wine is syrah made from fruit grown in cool climate vineyards. Try searching them out and tasting them side-by-side with warm climate production… you will taste the difference. If you enjoy complex, structured wines, these wines will be for you!

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February 9, 2012 · 9:38 AM

3-Step Wine Distribution & Internet Retailers

Acquiring wine via the internet can be a real education. Years back, it was just a convenient way to diversify my purchases adding more European wines. Then, it opened my eyes to overstock re-sellers like Cinderella Wine and Last Bottle and I realized there were strategies to lowering your wine cost. I live in a state that by law forces 3-step retail wine distribution in most situations. So, the use of online retailers to stock my cellar has become my method for lessening the impact of this misguided statute. Many local wine and spirits distributors in AZ have a sub-par fine wines selection. Those that do have a nice portfolio are more interested in restaurant sales. Wine shops here offer minimal service, and special ordering wine can be a real nightmare.


Once you go down the online path, you find sites like: Wine-Searcher. Ultimately though, you make the journey back to the large online retailers like: K&L, Zachys, Wine.com, Wine House, etc. I buy primarily from the West Coast, to shorten the time in transit and lower the freight cost. Although, I have started working with East Coast online retailers, because the European wine importers there seem to offer a much larger French and Italian selection.

How do I select which online retailers to work with? In order of importance:
Manages weather-hold issues well.
Broad, diverse selection.
Price.
Accessible service rep to deal with problems.
Lowest shipping cost.
Willing to accumulate case quantities before shipping.


I wish I could support local wine businesses and I would prefer to, but I haven’t found local sources that are willing, or knowledgeable enough to have a discussion like a K&L Wines rep. The lack of Wine Education in the retail wine space is tragic.

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