Exploring Winemaker Choices in U.S. Syrah – Whole Cluster vs. Crush & De-Stem

Wines Selected for Comparison

Winery – Myriad Cellars, Winemaker – Mike Smith

• 2012 & 2013 (100% Syrah), 100% Whole cluster fermentation with stem inclusion, Las Madres Vineyard, Carneros AVA, Napa, CA
• 2012 & 2013 (100% Syrah), Crush & de-stemming prior to fermentation, Las Madres Vineyard, Carneros AVA, Napa, CA

Winery – Reynvaan Family, Winemaker – Matt Reynvaan

• 2012 (98% Syrah, 2% Viognier) In the Rocks, Partial whole cluster and stem inclusion (% unknown) – Estate Vineyard, Milton-Freewater AVA, Walla Walla, WA

Tasting Setup

These wines were assembled from my cellar and served to a local group of wine collectors. Typical charcuterie accompanied the wines and they were tasted side-by-side single blind, after being decanted an hour prior to serving. All wines were of original provenance and stored in climate-controlled cellars from purchase. I was curious about this comparison, but didn’t want to open all these bottles without sharing. I posted this piece, because I felt there was information that would be beneficial to up-and-coming fine winemakers. I hope this adds to body of knowledge for at least a few.

Evaluation

Overall Impressions

The Carneros Syrahs were definitely more fruit-forward and New World in style vs. the Walla Wall Syrah. The bottle age was kinder to the Carneros Syrah. The minimal fruit and low acid in the Reynvaan wine caused the wine to be out of balance.

• Age had resolved all tannins in the Reynvaan Syrah. The tannins were low in the Myriad wines, but present.
• Acid levels were much higher in the Myriad Syrah.
• Secondary and tertiary flavors were more obvious in the Reynvaan Syrah and it had become very savory in profile. Very Northern Rhone in character.

Purpose of Whole Cluster Fermentation Technique in Winemaking

The poster child wine for whole cluster is Gamay. Although, Pinot Noir is frequently made this way too. It is less common in Syrah production. The technique can be used to generate a few different outcomes:

• Soften wines and add mouthfeel.
• Add secondary flavors.
• Increase tannins via stems.
• Intensify fruit flavors.

Different grape varieties react differently, and these outcomes are not consistent across all varietals.

Comparison

Did the whole cluster Syrahs have a significantly different flavor profile? The entire group felt there were only minor differences in the mid-palate. The two winemakers’ intent may have been different. One making wines to age and the other to drink young. On that front, the Myriad Syrahs were much more ageable, maintaining more of the original character of the wine than the Reynvaan.

Having had the luxury of tasting all of these wines on release and after 5-10 years of bottle age… The whole cluster wines were more approachable on release, but that difference lessened as the wines aged. In the case of the Myriad wines, neither technique had a markedly different effect on the age-ability of the wines.